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African Violets are essentially indoor plants requiring conditions like those we prefer to live in.

Any attempt to grow them outdoors will certainly result in failure, mainly due to the extreme fluctuations of temperatures, plus the difficulty in controlling insects that can be devastating to their wellbeing.

Light. African Violets are grown for their very attractive flowers and foliage, and it is very important that they grow in very good light. The general rule is as much light as possible without direct sunlight. This means that they should be placed close to a window that receives good light during most of the daylight hours. Windows facing North or South are the best because they receive good light all day. East and West facing windows must have some protection from the sun’s direct rays both morning and afternoon throughout the summer months.

African Violets will bloom continuously given good light but because the hours of light are reduced during the winter months, as well as the intensity, there will be fewer blooms at this time of the year.

The more serious growers use growing lights because there is full control over the light; in addition, they can then be grown in most situations in the home. The lights are in between 20 and 30 cms above the foliage with lights on for 8 to 10 hours during the daylight hours. All plants must have a period of darkness African Violets need about 8 hours.

Warmth. Being tropical plants, violets need warmth to grow well, and the ideal temperature is in the mid 20°s However, they will grow reasonably well outside that range, but will not tolerate a temperature below 12° for any length of time. They also resent big fluctuations in temperature, but this does not normally occur in the home, although it is best to remove them from the window during cold nights or at least give them the protection of drawn curtains or blinds between them and the cold glass.

Watering. Rainwater is best, always at room temperature. Cold water will damage the roots. Watering can be from the top or bottom or by self-watering methods if the potting mix is suitable. The frequency of watering will depend on the mix, the size of the pot and the temperature. The mix should be kept damp, not wet. The general rule, as with most plants, is to wait until the surface of the soil is dry, water thoroughly, and do not water again until the surface is again dry.

Fertilising. This is done on a continuous basis with every watering. Use a blue fertilizer at ¹/16 (one sixteenth) per 2 litres of water. Then use the yellow fertilizer when the flowers start to appear at ¹/16 (one sixteenth) per 2 litres of water. Nothing is gained by adding extra fertiliser apart from damage to your violet. The yellow fertiliser should not be used for more than 3 weeks at any time, as it does not contain enough nitrogen for the plant’s needs and will cause the leaves to turn yellow.

General. Allow plenty of space between the plants for good circulation of air around them. Lack of air circulation, especially when the humidity is high, will introduce powdery mildew.

Keep leaves clean; a soft brush can be useful, brushing from the centre outwards.

Warm water will not damage leaves unless they are placed in strong light before they dry.

Do not place cut flowers from your garden near your violets, as you will possibly introduce thrips, aphids, or mites. Most pests are easily eradicated using suitable sprays, except for mites which can easily ruin your Violet before you are aware of their presence. In this case, take a good leaf and start again. Most sprays or even water will damage blooms.